Some days are more eventful than others. Today, we witnessed a total eclipse of the sun and crossed the equator on a small boat.
Thus far, we have been blessed with a fast and uneventful sail across the intertropical convergence zone (ITCZ) or “doldrums.” This is an area marked by calms, lightning, and otherwise squally weather. Ships would often get stuck here for weeks waiting for the wind to fill in. We’ve sailed the entire time and only dealt with one significant rain squall, which was a welcome rinse for Roam.
The Solar Eclipse
Back when we started planning this trip, John pointed out that it was conceivable we might be able to view the total solar eclipse during our voyage. He promptly ordered some eclipse glasses for us, and they’ve been sitting in the nav station since last summer. None of us thought much about it beyond that. A lot would have to come together for it to work out.
With a day to go, it became clear we might be able to make it into the path of totality and maybe to the transit longitude of the eclipse itself. A longitude we calculated to be W132:43’.
We tried valiantly to reach the equator at the eclipse transit longitude, but 9-10 knots the night before was just too fast, and we opted to reduce sail and the loads on the boat (and my anxiety).
But we got close enough. We enjoyed more than two minutes of totality and several hours of partial coverage.
We believe we are the only humans to have witnessed the eclipse in the vicinity of the equator today. There was nobody on radar or AIS around us that we could see.
It is nothing short of an awe-inspiring experience. Near-complete darkness. I wonder what the ancients thought when all of a sudden the sun randomly shut off during the middle of the day.
Crossing the Equator
Crossing the equator is a celebrated rite of passage for every sailor. Yesterday was our time, and we crossed at 2306 UTC.
Pollywogs who cross are eligible to enter the court of King Neptune and become shellbacks.
John was the lone shellback among us, and he held a truly epic and memorable ceremony as King Neptune. He had crossed many years ago as a Seaman aboard the USCG cutter, Steadfast.
The ceremony itself is classified, but it includes atoning for one’s sins against the sea, entertaining the king, and committing to stewardship of the kingdom. This is a longstanding maritime tradition, widely practiced even today. And we were all duly awarded our certificates (suitable for framing). If you find yourself crossing the line and in need of King Neptune, you can do no better than John!
500 miles to go. We should be in the anchorage at Hiva Oa on Friday the 12th. Until then, I remain profoundly grateful for this wonderful crew and this magnificent boat that has taken such good care of us.
Daily updates from our PredictWind log:
Half Way There
Thu Apr 04 2024
All is well. We are presently broad reaching under double reefed main and Solent in a 21 knot strong breeze and 6’ following seas. Daggers at 1/3.
We turned in another personal best yesterday with a noon to noon run of 212 nm. Two consecutive days of 200+ miles. Pretty amazing speeds.
Last night just before midnight we passed the half way point (in miles not time). We celebrated by taking a rogue wave over the starboard side filling the cockpit with salt water and flopping fish, negating my recent shower, and creating a salty mess in the cabin. Mike had just crawled on the couch to sleep and got doused.
We gybed due south this morning per our routing plan. This will cut across the ITCZ (inter tropical convergence zone or “doldrums) known for light winds, lightening and otherwise squally weather. By 5N we should be able to head direct for Hiva Oa.
The weather models still show a morning landfall on the 11th.
The weather is good. The boat is moving fast. The crew is well rested and well fed. Spirits are high.
Through the ITCZ
Fri Apr 05 2024
All is well. We are presently running on a deep reach before a strong 22 knot wind with the “chicken rig,” Saul the Solent poled out to port and a double reefed main. 8-10’ confused/following seas. 1/3 daggers.
We are nearly through the inter tropical convergence zone, an area known for calm winds, lightening and otherwise squally weather. Our ITCZ transit has been anything but that. We carried the low to mid 20 knot northeasterly that we’ve had with us for the past 5 days all the way through.
With that, we have turned the nose toward Hiva Oa at around 6N.
We’ve given up shooing the boobies away. I had a talk with them and they agreed to confine their latrine to the port bow. They are tired so they can stay. We can relate.
Joan was assaulted by a flying fish that landed in her lap. An interesting thing, when these flying fish land in the boat they get so stressed out they throw up.
Last night we gorged on “Taco Thursday” (you landlubbers have this on Tuesday I believe).
It was a loud and bumpy night last night but we made good miles through the ITCZ.
I predict some naps today while the wind and seas fade a bit (we hope).
For now, the stern is square to the seas (as much as they can be with more than one swell) and we are making for the islands.
Frequently asked questions:
Q: Are you guys fishing?
A: No. mike has our rig ready to go. But the only thing we will catch at these speeds is something big. And the idea of murdering a large, pissed off fish while standing on the transom step surfing down waves at 14 knots seems unwise.
Q: Do you stop at night?
A: No. we keep on trucking. I try not to think about the fact I can’t see anything in front of us. We do run the radar which can look out 24 miles and that helps see ships and squalls.
Q: Are there really flying fish?
A: Yes. Perhaps not the smartest of the fish out there but amazing at flying. Seems to be their preferred way to avoid being eaten by bigger fish and birds. Right up until they land in Joan’s lap.
Q: Will you sail the boat back to the US?
A: Not our plan. It’s a tough trip. We expect instead to be in New Zealand in November. Returning to the US is usually done via Hawaii.
Northeast Trade Winds
Sat Apr 06 2024
All is well. We are presently close reaching at 8 knots in a moderate breeze of 13 knots and 8-10’ confused seas. Jack, the Code 65 and a full main. Daggers at 1/2.
We sailed out of the strong northerlies that have carried us south these past 5 days and into the trade winds. That all started happening at about 4:50am.
The transition from one wind to another is somewhat chaotic. It also takes a few hours and miles for the seas to organize.
Yesterday was laundry day. Yes, Roam has a washer. It used to have clothes dryer but it used a lot of electricity and didn’t actually dry anything so it got donated and replaced by a beer fridge. It also uses a lot of electricity but at least yields cold beverages.
We crossed the 1,000 mile mark just afternoon.
The ITCZ is “active” as far south as 1N. We will hopefully be through the bulk of it tomorrow. Meanwhile the scattered rain showers give Roam a well deserved rinse.
—Jim
A Glorious Night of Sailing
Sun Apr 07 2024
All is well. We are presently close reaching in a light breeze of 9 knots with a full main and Jack our code 65 headsail twinged to the rail. Half daggers.
Cats can generate a lot of apparent wind and in this light breeze we are sailing almost as fast as the wind speed.
We finally sailed out of the “washing machine” of confused seas and into the steady, rhythmic swells of the trade winds. Last night the boat gliding along absolutely silent. It was wonderful. I got off watch at midnight, took a cool shower and went to bed and slept hard for 8 hours. Mike and John had uneventful watches and kept the boat moving fast and smooth.
During the day yesterday, Mike discovered a stream of hydraulic fluid running out of the starboard steering station. Roam’s steering system and autopilot are hydraulic so this was some cause for alarm. After troubleshooting we figured out that we had overfilled the fluid reservoir on the port side. It was only now after gybing onto port after a week of being on starboard that the fluid worked itself to the other side and seeped out of the top of the starboard reservoir. Took a bit of thinking to figure that out. Crisis averted.
After finishing coffee this morning we shook out the reef we put in each night and we are back to full speed.
We should be clear of the ITCZ tonight and at the equator tomorrow morning where John (a shellback) has a special ceremony in store for our crew of pollywogs.
We are also on track to be in the path of tomorrow’s eclipse and we have our eclipse glasses with us!
A bunch of us are golfers and we were commenting that last nights sail was like a round of really terrible golf where you manage to birdie the 11th hole. That’s all you need to keep you coming back. Last night we birdied the 11th hole!
—Jim
If you are interested in life aboard Chaos, our buddy boat a few hundred miles behind us, their crewman, John Baker has been writing excellent daily posts of their experiences on Facebook. John is a great writer.
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Racing to the Equator for the Eclipse
Mon Apr 08 2024
All is well. We are presently close reaching with a full main and Saul the Solent in a 14 knot breeze with 4-6 foot confused seas. 1/3 daggers. On heading for the finish.
This is an exciting morning. We may be the only 5 humans on earth who will witness the eclipse from the equator today. Less than two hours from now.
A few minutes later we will cross the equator leaving us a little over 500nm to go.
I’ll post another update this afternoon.
For now it’s been a great sail through the ITCZ. We are indeed fortunate to have had these conditions.
Such a great trip with such skilled and competent owners and scallywag crew. Loved the initiation…and all the getups…my gawd there was some pre-planning, along with the foresight to bring eclipse glasses!
Under FAQs you might note that flying fish don’t actually fly, though they are great jumpers and gliders…although that might be a little obscure for most readers haha.
Simply incredible! Solar eclipse on the equator. WOW!
You all are so BRAVE! What an incredible experience. Love that you caught the eclipse. And Pam….you look like a beautiful mermaid!
Thank you Terri! Seeing the eclipse from the equator in the middle of the Pacific Ocean is a day I will always remember!! Just a couple more days to go 🙏
Welcome Shellbacks. I’m going to hazard a guess that your ceremony was a little bit more pleasant then when I crossed the equator aboard an aircraft carrier. One question: if you were all pollywogs then there was no one qualified to be King Neptune, dod the actual Neptune come aboard the Roam? That would have been awesome! : )
Sail on sailors…
Thank you for your service.
My brother John was the lone shellback among us at the start of the trip. He served in the US Coast Guard for over 31 years. Back in the 80s he was a seaman aboard the Coast Guard cutter, Steadfast as a master helmsman and lookout. It was aboard the Steadfast he crossed the line and became a shellback.
He went on to become a Chief Petty Officer and retired as a direct commissioned officer, Lt Commander.
Most of his career was in Coast Guard aviation aboard C130s on SAR patrols.
He also served as the senior duty officer of the White House Situation Room where he twice woke President Obama from a sound sleep. Once to tell him he’d won the Nobel prize and the other to let him know of Osama bin Laden’s demise.
You can imagine the good stories we get out here!
You guys are having so much fun out there. As it should be. You will remember all the good times cause all the uncomfortable stuff goes away. Heehee.
Wish I could be out there with you.
Congrats on almost landfall.
Cheers,
Debbie
Thank you. I know we walk remember this amazing journey and I know I will never forget this amazing crew.
A bit of a washing machine today. Winds in the 20s with very confused seas. Trying to hold the lay line to the finish on a beam reach. Not a great sea state for any boat and especially a cat going 9-10 knots.
What an adventure. Have been reading all of your postings and watching your progress. Best of luck with making landfall. I can understand your wanting to be on land but not wanting the long sail to end. What an experience you all have been enjoying. Enjoy your cheeseburger!
What an incredible adventure…and really, this is just the beginning. Love the picture of King Neptune and his Shellbacks! And the eclipse!! How amazing that must have been. We are thinking about you always and can’t wait for the next update. It’s VERY fun to see where you are and be able to read about your adventures as they unfold! Enjoy that cheeseburger!!
So glad you have hit land. Awesome job!! Amazing crew!
Eric and Julie
Thank you. Although, sailors avoid the phrase “hit land” whenever possible. It’s hard on the boat. Hitting land. The middle of the ocean is rarely the problem. The problem is almost always the edges of the ocean!
Looks like it has been a grand adventure!
Bone, Thanks! Wonderful to have you along!